AAS
Hands stitching leather at the workshop bench

Craftsmanship

Seven stages.No hurry in any of them.

Reading the hide

01

Reading the hide

Every hide is unrolled and read before it is cut. Tight back grain becomes structure; the softer belly becomes movement. Scars stay if they carry character; weaknesses never pass the table.

Cutting

02

Cutting

Panels are cut by knife against brass templates worn smooth by years of use. A single Madras Tote comes from one hide, so the grain flows unbroken around the body.

Skiving & assembly

03

Skiving & assembly

Edges are thinned by hand where panels meet, so seams fold without bulk. Nothing is glued that is not also stitched.

Saddle stitching

04

Saddle stitching

Two needles cross inside every awl hole. Cut any single stitch and the seam holds. Eleven metres of waxed linen thread go into our largest bag — every metre set by hand.

Edge finishing

05

Edge finishing

Edges are sanded, dyed, waxed and burnished — then the cycle repeats, five times. A finished edge should feel like polished stone.

Hardware

06

Hardware

Solid cast brass only, fastened through leather with saddler's rivets or stitching. New brass is polished, then deliberately dulled one grade. It should whisper.

Inspection & signature

07

Inspection & signature

The maker who finishes a piece signs against its number in the workshop ledger. If it isn't worth signing, it doesn't leave.

The result of all this patienceis waiting on the shelf.